The New Yorker & Me: At the Archive: Nick Paumgarten's "Tables For Two: Tony Luke's"

Introduction

What is The New Yorker? I know it’s a great magazine and that it’s a tremendous source of pleasure in my life. But what exactly is it? This blog’s premise is that The New Yorker is a work of art, as worthy of comment and analysis as, say, Keats’s “Ode on a Grecian Urn.” Each week I review one or more aspects of the magazine’s latest issue. I suppose it’s possible to describe and analyze an entire issue, but I prefer to keep my reviews brief, and so I usually focus on just one or two pieces, to explore in each the signature style of its author. A piece by Nick Paumgarten is not like a piece by Jill Lepore, and neither is like a piece by Ian Frazier. One could not mistake Collins for Seabrook, or Bilger for Galchen, or Mogelson for Kolbert. Each has found a style, and it is that style that I respond to as I read, and want to understand and describe.

Friday, February 24, 2017

At the Archive: Nick Paumgarten's "Tables For Two: Tony Luke's"

Today, I’m in the Archive devouring Nick Paumgarten’s “Tables For Two: Tony Luke’s” (April 11, 2005). Early in his New Yorker career, Paumgarten wrote a slew of “Tables For Two” pieces. “Tony Luke’s” is one of his most inspired, featuring this memorable description of a Tony Luke’s cheesesteak:

The cheesesteaks here are about a foot long, and they are served without the benefit of being cut in half. As a result, as you eat one, the structural integrity starts to go; well-cheesified clumps of steak ooze out the sides. Quick flanking bites along the roll’s perimeter don’t much help, and soon you find yourself pushing the thing into your mouth like a log into a chipper.

That last line makes me smile every time I read it.

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Ben McGrath, "Riverman" (2022)
Bill Buford, "Dirt" (2020)
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C. K. Williams, "On Whitman" (2010)
Charles Simic, "The Life of Images" (2015)
Colm Tóibín, "On Elizabeth Bishop" (2015)
Curtis Sittenfeld, "You Think It, I'll Say It" (2018)
Eleanor Cook, "Elizabeth Bishop at Work" (2016)
Geoff Dyer, "Otherwise Known as the Human Condition" (2011)
Geoff Dyer, "See/Saw" (2021)
Geoff Dyer, "The Last Days of Roger Federer" (2022)
Geoff Dyer, "The Street Philosophy of Garry Winogrand" (2018)
Geoff Dyer, "White Sands" (2016)
Gideon Lewis-Krauss, "A Sense of Direction" (2012)
Helen Vendler, "Last Looks, Last Books" (2010)
Helen Vendler, "The Ocean, the Bird and the Scholar" (2015)
Ian Frazier, "Hogs Wild" (2016)
Ian Frazier, "Travels in Siberia" (2010)
Ian Penman, "It Gets Me Home, This Curving Track" (2019)
James Wolcott, "Critical Mass" (2013)
James Wood, "Serious Noticing" (2019)
James Wood, "The Fun Stuff" (2012)
James Wood, "The Nearest Thing to Life" (2015)
Janet Malcolm, "Forty-one False Starts" (2013)
Janet Malcolm, "Iphigenia in Forest Hills" (2011)
Janet Malcolm, "Nobody's Looking at You" (2019)
Janet Malcolm, "Still Pictures" (2023)
Jill Lepore, "Joe Gould's Teeth" (2015)
Jill Lepore, "The Deadline" (2023)
Joanna Biggs, "A Life of One's Own" (2023)
John Lahr, "Joy Ride" (2015)
John McPhee, "Draft No. 4" (2017)
John McPhee, "Silk Parachute" (2010)
John McPhee, "Tabula Rasa" (2023)
John McPhee, "The Patch" (2018)
John Updike, "Always Looking" (2012)
John Updike, "Higher Gossip" (2011)
Jonathan Franzen, "The End of the End of the Earth" (2018)
Jonathan Kramnick, "Criticism & Truth" (2023)
Jonathan Raban, "Driving Home" (2010)
Joyce Carol Oates, "In Rough Country" (2010)
Judith Thurman, "A Left-Handed Woman" (2022)
Julian Bell, "Van Gogh" (2015)
Keith Gessen, "A Terrible Country" (2018)
Lawrence Osborne, "The Wet and the Dry" (2013)
Martin Amis, "The Rub of Time" (2018)
Michael Hofmann, "Where Have You Been?" (2014)
Morten Strøksnes, "Shark Drunk" (2018)
Nicholson Baker, "Finding a Likeness" (2024)
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Peter Schjeldahl, "The Art of Dying" (2024)
Robert Hass, "What Light Can Do" (2012)
Robert Macfarlane, "The Old Ways" (2012)
Robert Sullivan, "Double Exposure" (2024)
Roger Angell, "This Old Man" (2015)
Samanth Subramanian, "Following Fish" (2010)
Svetlana Alpers, "Walker Evans" (2020)
T. J. Clark, "Heaven on Earth" (2018)
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Timothy Hampton, "Bob Dylan: How the Songs Work" (2019)
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Wayne Koestenbaum, "My 1980s & Other Essays" (2013)
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