Here are my favorite “Goings On About Town” pieces of 2015
(with a choice quote from each selection in brackets):
1. Amelia Lester, "Tables For Two: Shuko," August 10 &
17, 2015). (“ ‘Did he say scallop sperm?’ He did, and it’s mild, sweet,
and a little bit wobbly, like custard.”)
2. Sarah Larson, "Bar Tab: Wassail," April 20, 2015. (“Better
yet was the Falling Up, with bourbon, apple brandy, Cynar, lemon, fresh ginger,
and port. Served in a brandy snifter, piled high with pebbled ice, like a
sno-cone, and garnished with an elaborately carved wedge of gala apple, it
swirled cloudily in the glass, looking gloriously silly.”)
3. Emma Allen, "Bar Tab: Winnie's," February 9, 2015. (“One
evening in Chinatown, a young woman in a Nirvana T-shirt took a break from
mixing Hawaiian punches—a juggling act involving eight kinds of liquor,
pineapple juice, and grenadine—to pull out a giant laser disk, grab a mic, and
perform “Santeria,” by Sublime.”)
4. Andrea K. Scott, "Boxing Days," June 29, 2015. (“It’s a
portable survey of Cianciolo’s career, revealing a hunter-gatherer of the flea
market and an inveterate archivist of her own process. They’re the
shamanic-punk heirs to a lineage of inside-the-box thinkers whose most famous
son is Joseph Cornell.”)
5. Emma Allen, "Bar Tab: Livingston Manor," March 16, 2015.
(“So it is that such throwbacks as wood reclaimed from a Virginia elementary
school and a bourbon-and-ginger-spiked egg cream called the Bugsville Fizz
coexist with neoteric features like a hearty dark lager from Catskill Brewery
(est. 2014), a duck-rillette banh mi, and a woman guilelessly confessing, ‘I
never really got into Seinfeld, I
think because I was too young.’ ”)
6. Richard Brody, "Bodies of Work," June 22, 2015. (“Fairchild,
who performs like a counterculture Gena Rowlands, is irresistibly passionate
and volatile even in repose, and Shults displays a bold visual and dramatic
sensibility with his impressionistic rearrangement of time and his repertory of
darting, whirling, plunging, and retreating camera moves, which seem to paint
the action onto the screen.”)
7. Colin Stokes, "Bar Tab: Threes Brewing," June 29, 2015.
(“Appropriately, first on the list is the terrific Negligence, which blends
gin, basil syrup, lemon, and absinthe into what looks like a green juice
cleanse, but is much better for you, depending on who you trust. ‘Your mouth
might not be able to detect how strong it is, but your liver will,’ a server
advised.”)
8. Nicolas Niarchos, "Bar Tab: Dutch Kills," November 2, 2015.
(“Behind a brown door on a blasted
section of Jackson Avenue, a whip-thin saloon that bears the neighborhood’s
name is bringing back a version of the past, with the clink of hand-cut ice in
tumblers and the waft of freshly cut orange peel.”)
9. Jiayang Fan, "Bar Tab: Play Lounge," February 16, 2015. (“Hookah
beer towers (strawberry, mint, melon) are hailed like cabs on a busy avenue.”)
10. Silvia Killingsworth, "Tables For Two: Timna," October
26, 2015. (“Kubaneh is a Yemenite-Jewish yeast loaf traditionally eaten on the
morning of the sabbath, after it has baked overnight at a low temperature.
Mesika’s version is served steaming hot in a clay flowerpot, freckled with
sesame seeds. Its texture falls somewhere between brioche, challah, and
croissant, and it pulls apart like cotton candy.”)
Credit: The above illustration, by Rebecca Monk, is from
Jiayang Fan’s "Bar Tab: Play Lounge," The
New Yorker, February 16, 2015.
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