Helen Rosner's "New York's Finest Sandwich"

Photo by Ian Loring Shiver, from Helen Rosner's "New York's Finest Sandwich"

This is just a quick note to say how much I enjoyed Helen Rosner’s recent “New York’s Finest Sandwich” (newyorker.com, March 22, 2026). I love sandwiches and I love Rosner’s writing. This piece is double bliss. Rosner tells about her favorite Italian sandwich in New York City – Court Street Grocer’s Vegitalian double combo. She says,

What makes me love it with such evangelical intensity is what it has taught me about the true meaning of its salumi-filled counterpart. Sandwich aficionados will spend happy hours yelling at one another about the proper cold cuts for an Italian combo, debating with Talmudic intensity the relative merits of soppressata versus capicola, or whether to include a layer of mortadella (nice, in my opinion) or prosciutto (never; a textural abomination). But the Vegitalian renders all of those arguments entirely moot, by evoking all the best parts of a meat-laden sandwich meatlessly. What’s important isn’t the meat itself but what it provides: heft, bite, umami, complexity, funk, fat. In the hands of a sandwich master, these things can come from elsewhere—in the Vegitalian, thin slabs of fresh mozzarella and, of all things, a thick layer of roasted sweet-potato slices.

Rosner analyzes the Vegitalian in detail. She considers its texture:

In the Vegitalian, the sweet potato, with its happy mushiness, has a surprisingly similar yielding texture to a ruffled heap of thinly sliced deli meats, and its subtle sweetness evokes that of many salumi. 

Its color:

Not immaterially, its bright-orange color looks absolutely gorgeous against the rest of the sandwich. 

Its inspired combination of ingredients:

Every other detail of the Vegitalian likewise replaces an element that the meats provided in the original. Arugula, in lieu of more traditional iceberg lettuce, adds peppery bite. Pecorino, rather than Parmigiano, provides funk. In addition to mozzarella (salty, springy) there is a very nontraditional layer of Swiss cheese, lending a gently savory note. Rather than a conventional splash of red-wine vinegar, the Vegitalian gets a hefty smear of Court Street Grocers’ signature “hoagie spread,” a piquant relish of kalamata and green olives plus a briny, giardiniera-style mix of cauliflower, carrots, peppers, and other pickly things. There’s also a smear of mayo—Italian-combo sacrilege, in some sandwich circles, though I’ve always felt that it boosts the lusciousness of this sort of sandwich. The bread is a soft-crumbed, crackly-crusted seeded roll, with faintly salty pockets of air. To be fair, all these components are present in Court Street Grocers’ standard Italian combo, too—but the result, in that case, is less adjacent to perfection, with too many strong notes competing for the same frequencies.

She concludes dazzlingly:

What I find most wondrous about the Vegitalian is that it’s not a vegetarian sandwich that happens to be good. It’s not a concession to dietary preference, or a consolation prize. It is, in every sense, a more considered sandwich than the typical monument to meat; every ingredient is load-bearing, each element thought through and assigned a job. The result is a sandwich that illuminates, a sandwich that delights, a sandwich that redefines the Italian combo as a structure, a set of relationships, a formula that admits many solutions. The meat never figures, and you never miss it; all you miss, when the sandwich is gone, is the sandwich itself.

By the time I finished reading this tour de force of sandwich description, I wanted so badly to sink my teeth into a Vegitalian that I seriously considered flying to New York to get one.