I swirled the beer and admired the lacery of foam, as the bubbles slid slowly down the side of the glass. I took a deep whiff—the Cascade hops, from the Pacific Northwest, had notes of pineapple and hay. I brought the glass up to my lips, and took a long swallow. A tingle of good cheer seemed to spread through my hand up my right arm and into my chest.
- I was on my way to the fridge to get a can of Libra, my favorite N.A. beer. It’s produced by a craft beer company called Upstreet, located in Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island. And it’s damn tasty – a crisp pale ale with a tropical aroma, and a refreshing amount of citrus hoppiness. I pulled the tab and took a few swigs. Ah, fucking delicious! With my Libra in hand, I went back to Seabrook’s piece and devoured the rest of it. What a great piece of writing – where greatness means clear, vivid, evocative, absorbing, entertaining, perceptive. It’s about two things: Seabrook’s “raging non-alcoholism,” and his discovery of a great zero-alcoholic beer called Run Wild made by the Athletic Brewing Company in Stratford, Connecticut. He says of Run Wild,
Though lacking the depth and complexity of an alcoholic craft beer, Run Wild offers a breadth of flavors that partly makes up for alcohol’s absence, along with the mouthfeel of real beer: frisky, foamy, pillowy. I wanted to know how Athletic had figured this out.
“Zero-Proof Therapy" is a perfect blend of the personal and the reportorial. I enjoyed it immensely.
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