Introduction

What is The New Yorker? I know it’s a great magazine and that it’s a tremendous source of pleasure in my life. But what exactly is it? This blog’s premise is that The New Yorker is a work of art, as worthy of comment and analysis as, say, Keats’s “Ode on a Grecian Urn.” Each week I review one or more aspects of the magazine’s latest issue. I suppose it’s possible to describe and analyze an entire issue, but I prefer to keep my reviews brief, and so I usually focus on just one or two pieces, to explore in each the signature style of its author. A piece by Nick Paumgarten is not like a piece by Jill Lepore, and neither is like a piece by Ian Frazier. One could not mistake Collins for Seabrook, or Bilger for Galchen, or Mogelson for Kolbert. Each has found a style, and it is that style that I respond to as I read, and want to understand and describe.

Saturday, June 1, 2019

May 27, 2019 Issue


Hannah Goldfield’s “Kitchen Shift,” in this week’s issue, profiles the chefs (David McMillan and Fréderic Morin) behind Joe Beef, a Montreal restaurant famous for its “exuberant immoderation, a blend of the haute and the gluttonous.” The piece is a shade too puritanical for my taste, impugning McMillan’s and Morin’s new-found sobriety as just a “marketing maneuver,” using guilt by association to implicate them in the Norman Hardie sexual assault case, carping about there being only one woman in the Joe Beef kitchen. I wonder if McMillan and Morin knew what Goldfield’s intentions were when they agreed to be the subject of her piece. Did they realize, as they fêted her at Le Vin Papillon and Joe Beef, that she was actually writing a castigation of them? I doubt it. “Kitchen Shift” is an example of betrayal journalism. Other examples: Lillian Ross’s profile of Ernest Hemingway; David Remnick’s profile of Gary Hart. I’m not a fan of it.

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