At my table, in the shadow of the historic Williamsburgh Savings Bank building, I ordered another wedge salad (rapture, again) and a burger, a beautiful mass of luscious ground beef whose iodine tang played perfectly off a sweet, salty slice of American cheese, a fat cross-section of raw white onion, and a big, domed sesame bun.
That “whose iodine tang played perfectly off a sweet, salty slice of American cheese, a fat cross-section of raw white onion, and a big, domed sesame bun” is ravishing!
Goldfield’s food descriptions are not the only literary source of carnal satisfaction. Judith Thurman’s clothing depictions do it for me, too. This one, for instance, from her excellent “Eye of the Needle,” also in this week’s issue:
One of the earliest garments with an “Ann Lowe” label is now at the Met Costume Institute: a sublime wedding dress from 1941, with the silhouette of an Erté Tanagra. Embroidered trapunto lilies, bedewed with seed pearls, cascade down the bodice; molten satin bubbles at the hem like a pool of candle wax.
A special shout-out, as well, to Naila Ruechel, for her wonderful photos of Lowe dresses, illustrating Thurman’s piece. I think my favourite is this beauty:
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