Shauna Lyon, in her delectable “Tables For Two: Le Pavillon,” in this week’s issue, describes the location of her table in Le Pavillon as slightly evoking “a Hilton Hotel in Toronto.” Why Toronto? Is that her idea of restaurant Siberia? Never mind. Her piece is delightful, starting with a wonderful decorative detail (“A fanciful blown-glass chandelier, by the artist Andy Paiko, drips from the room’s cathedral ceiling”), and ending with a delicious description of Le Pavillon’s Noisette Chocolat (“controlled whimsy, precise geometry, silken mousse, flawless chocolate coating, a crumbly, nutty praline croustillant, and a strong hit of salt”). Mm, I’ll have a piece of that, please.
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