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| Illustration based on photo from esquireme.com |
In this series, I choose ten of my favorite New Yorker travel pieces, one per month, and try to express why I like them. Today’s pick is Peter Hessler’s great “Walking the Wall” (May 21, 2007).
What’s it like to walk on the Great Wall of China? This piece tells us. The time is 2005. Hessler lives in Beijing. Here’s his opening paragraph:
When the weather is good, or when I’m tired of having seven million neighbors, I drive north from downtown Beijing. It takes an hour and a half to reach Sancha, a quiet village where I rent a farmhouse. The road dead-ends at the village, but a footpath continues into the mountains. The trail forks twice, climbs for a steep mile through a forest of walnut and oak, and terminates at the Great Wall of China.
I love that passage – so matter of fact, yet so exotic. It smacks of adventure. The next paragraph is equally good:
Once, I packed a tent, hiked up from the village, and walked eastward atop the wall for two days without seeing another person. Tourists rarely visit this area, where the wall is perched high along a ridgeline, magnificent in its isolation. The structure is made of stone, brick, and mortar; there are crenellations and archer slits, and guard towers that rise more than twenty feet high.
Hiking the wall one day, Hessler finds a fragment of a marble tablet. He can make out some of the words, but the writing is in classical Chinese, which he’s never studied. Also, the surface of the tablet is badly scarred. Curious about the tablet’s meaning, Hessler turns to his friend David Spindler, who is a scholar of the Great Wall. Hessler writes,
On a cold December morning, Spindler and I set off to find the marble tablet. In the city, everything about his appearance had seemed chosen to avoid attention. But in the mountains he wore a red-checked wool hunting shirt, a floppy white Tilley safari hat, high-end La Sportiva mountaineering boots, and large elk-leather gloves designed for utility-line workers by J. Edwards of Chicago. He looked like a scarecrow of specialty gear—some limbs equipped for hard labor, others for intense recreation. Over the years, Spindler had determined that this was precisely the right ensemble for the Great Wall, where thorns and branches are common. For a face mask, he’d cut a leg off a pair of sweatpants, scissored a round hole, and pulled it over his head. (“It covers your neck.”) He wore polyurethane-coated L. L. Bean hunting trousers that had been reinforced by his neighborhood tailor. Denim patches covered the pants, like a friendship quilt linking Freeport and Beijing.
They find the smashed tablet. Spindler recognizes it immediately as a piece of tablet that dated to 1614. He even finds the place in the wall where it belongs. Hessler writes,
Spindler took a tape measure to the fragment, calculated the space between lines, and quickly computed the original dimensions. Slowly, he walked back along the wall, looking for a place where it could have been mounted. He measured an empty brick-bordered ledge: perfect fit. For this small section of the wall, he now knew the basic story of two construction campaigns in the sixteen-tens. Before leaving, we returned the fragment to the spot where I had found it.
Hessler tells about two other hikes that he and Spindler take on the wall. There’s one that starts near the remote village of Shuitou:
The harvest was nearly finished, and the wind rustled stalks of corn that stood dead in the fields. Beyond the village, we climbed a steep section of wall, where thousands of Mongols had attacked in 1555. Spindler said that the typical Chinese defense relied on crude cannons, arrows, cudgels, and even rocks. “There were regulations about how many stones you were supposed to have, and how you were supposed to bring them to the second floor of the tower if there was an attack,” he said. Later, he pointed out a circle of loose stones that had been carefully arranged atop the wall. Four and a half centuries later, they were still waiting for the next attack.
This hike involves bushwacking. Hessler writes,
In the afternoon, we bushwhacked. On his hikes, Spindler sometimes followed game trails, and often he walked atop wall sections, where the brush is less dense. But occasionally there was no option other than to pursue a ridge straight through the brambles. He called this “hiking like a Mongol,” and I hated it. I hated the thorns, and I hated the bad footing. I hated how my clothes got torn, and I hated the superiority of Spindler’s bizarre wall regalia. I hated how branches that were chest-high for him hit me in the face. Mostly, I hated the Mongols for hiking this way.
Hessler’s description of bushwacking produces one of his best lines: “When we reached the ruins of an old stone fort atop a ridge, it felt as if we had emerged from a long swim underwater.”
The other hike that Hessler does with Spindler starts in the Miyun district of northeast Beijing. Hessler’s account of this excursion forms the climax of his piece. He writes,
Although I had never liked the bushwhacking, during the past year I had come to appreciate the distinctive rhythm of the trips. Every journey had it all: good trails, bad trails, hellish thorns, spectacular views. No matter the landscape, I could always see Spindler up ahead, his white hat bobbing above the thickets.
On the way down, we found a dead roe deer in a trap. The loop snare had caught the animal around the neck; it must have strangled itself. Just beyond that, we reached a long section of wall where most ramparts had crumbled away. As I walked atop the structure, my boot got caught in a hole. I tripped and fell down a short ledge, pitching head first toward a ten-foot drop. Somehow—things happened very fast—I threw myself down against the wall. I slammed to a stop with my head peering over the edge.
“Nice save,” Spindler said, after he had rushed over. I rose slowly, and tried to walk, and knew that my left knee was badly hurt. But we were miles from help, and the temperature was well below freezing; the only option was to keep moving.
During the descent, I leaned on Spindler whenever possible. It took three hours, and I remember every minute. The next morning, I went to the hospital for X-rays. The doctor told me that I’d broken my kneecap and I’d be on crutches for six weeks; and that was the last time I walked on the Great Wall of China.
“Walking the Wall” is a vivid chronicle of hiking on one of the most ancient military structures in the world – the Great Wall of China. I first read it 2007, when it appeared in The New Yorker. I’ve never forgotten it.