Years ago I found myself in Indonesia, in Djakarta, which was once called Batavia, sitting at a table in a restaurant in the heart of the Chinese quarter of Glodok – near Kota, to anyone who knows this city, immense in extent, where the long streets change their names every two or three blocks, causing the visitor to go mad.
That’s one of my all-time favorite sentences. It’s the opening line of Aldo Buzzi’s brilliant essay “Travels to Djakarta, Gorgonzola, Crescenzago, London, Milan,” included in his slim, exquisite 1996 collection Journey to the Land of the Flies. I love it for its exoticism – “Indonesia,” “Djakarta,” “Batavia,” “the Chinese quarter of Glodok,” “Kota.” I love the “I found myself” – indicating an element of chance or drift. And I love the hinged, irregular construction joined together by a relative pronoun (“which”) and a relative adverb (“where”). What an original assemblage!

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