Hannah Goldfield’s “Kitchen Shift,” in this week’s issue, profiles the chefs (David McMillan and Fréderic Morin) behind Joe Beef, a Montreal restaurant famous for its “exuberant immoderation, a blend of the haute and the gluttonous.” The piece is a shade too puritanical for my taste, impugning McMillan’s and Morin’s new-found sobriety as just a “marketing maneuver,” using guilt by association to implicate them in the Norman Hardie sexual assault case, carping about there being only one woman in the Joe Beef kitchen. I wonder if McMillan and Morin knew what Goldfield’s intentions were when they agreed to be the subject of her piece. Did they realize, as they fêted her at Le Vin Papillon and Joe Beef, that she was actually writing a castigation of them? I doubt it. “Kitchen Shift” is an example of betrayal journalism. Other examples: Lillian Ross’s profile of Ernest Hemingway; David Remnick’s profile of Gary Hart. I’m not a fan of it.
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