Tables for Two Tango: Hannah Goldfield's "HK Food Court"

Photo by David Williams, from Hannah Goldfield's "Tables for Two: HK Food Court"

This is the third post in my series “Tables for Two Tango,” a celebration of Hannah Goldfield’s and Helen Rosner’s wonderful New Yorker restaurant reviews. Each month I select a favorite piece by one or the other of them and try to say why I like it. Today’s pick is Goldfield’s delectable “Tables for Two: HK Food Court” (February 3, 2020).

I chose this piece because it shows Goldfield’s democratic taste. She’s as much at home in a humble food court as she is in a Michelin-starred restaurant. For her, it’s all about the food. I also chose it because it contains an intensely vivid food description – one I’ve never forgotten.

HK Food Court is located in the Elmhurst neighborhood of Queens, in New York City. It consists of a couple of dozen stalls—serving regional Chinese, Thai, Vietnamese, Japanese, and Filipino cuisine. 

Goldfield visits more than once and orders from various stalls. She loves Lao Ma Spicy’s hot-and-sour soup:

But the soup is what haunts my daydreams: a large disposable plastic bowl priced irresistibly, at $4.99, and packed precariously full of glass noodles in an intensely flavorful broth—indeed hot, both in temperature and flavor, scarlet with chili oil, and vinegar-sour. For a few dollars extra, you can add a protein: beef, shrimp balls, Spam. Either way, the final and most crucial ingredients are dry-roasted peanuts with their papery brown skins intact, sweet leaves of steamed bok choy, and an intoxicating spoonful of ground pork, sautéed with tender curls of wood-ear mushroom and pickled radish.

Mm, I can almost taste it. How does Goldfield do it? Intensity, vividness, sensuousness – a combination of all three. I love that “packed precariously full of glass noodles,” and that “dry-roasted peanuts with their papery brown skins intact,” and that “tender curls of wood-ear mushroom.” It might be the most exquisite soup description I’ve ever read.

And Goldfield is not done. She’s just warming up. She visits other stalls:

One evening, at Lan Zhou Ramen, I ordered fat coins of Japanese eggplant—so shellacked in oil that they looked like porcelain yet melted forgivingly in the mouth—and bunches of chives as pliant as seagrass. From Mr. Liu Henan Wide Ramen, one stall over: cubes of fried wheat-bran dough dusted in cumin and a spiral-cut potato.

And now the climax:

I knew what to get at a seafood stall called Chili Boiled Fish, where live ones flopped around in a tank. A friendly cashier with a tattoo on her neck of a lipstick kiss carefully sealed a patterned bowl (for which I paid a five-dollar deposit) with plastic wrap to insure that it stayed hot. That proved unnecessary; it was many minutes before the dish cooled to less than scalding—which didn’t stop me from immediately plunging my flimsy spoon into the oily depths to find silky fillets of fish, tender cabbage, and chunks of cucumber, Sichuan peppercorns clinging to all, staining my rice with neon drips.

And there it is – “staining my rice with neon drips” – an inspired detail! The whole piece is inspired! One of “Tables for Two” ’s all-time best.