January 3 & 10, 2022 Issue

Shauna Lyon kicks off the year with a wonderful “Tables For Two.” She reviews Agi’s Counter, a Brooklyn eatery specializing in “Hungarian-inspired breakfast and lunch dishes.” I love breakfast. What’s Agi’s Counter serving? Lyon tells us:

On a recent morning, breakfast included the hearty Leberkase, in which a thick slab of spongy pork pâté is sandwiched, with fried egg and pear mostarda, between even thicker slabs of Pullman-style bread. But it was the tender herb-flecked biscuit—dill aroma meeting your nose as you lean in to bite, spread with mayo and stacked with a soft fried egg and assertive Alpine Cheddar—that made for the perfect morning snack.

Mm, that “dill aroma meeting your nose as you lean in to bite” is very good. I savor it.