Today, I’m in the Archive devouring Nick
Paumgarten’s “Tables For Two: Tony Luke’s” (April 11, 2005). Early in his New Yorker career, Paumgarten wrote a
slew of “Tables For Two” pieces. “Tony Luke’s” is one of his most inspired,
featuring this memorable description of a Tony Luke’s cheesesteak:
The cheesesteaks here are about a foot long, and they are
served without the benefit of being cut in half. As a result, as you eat one,
the structural integrity starts to go; well-cheesified clumps of steak ooze out
the sides. Quick flanking bites along the roll’s perimeter don’t much help, and
soon you find yourself pushing the thing into your mouth like a log into a
chipper.
That last line makes me smile every time I read it.
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